SUDZHA, RUSSIA—We piled out of the Ukrainian armored personnel carrier to a scene of devastation. The sculpture of Lenin in the main square had been defaced, his name crossed out with and “pidor,” an obscene curse word scribbled below it. The streets were full of broken glass and branches of blown-up trees. On the wall of one house was graffitied “Ukraine Above All.” The streets were almost completely quiet, except for the crack of artillery and drone fire in the distance.
Until August 6, this was Vladimir Putin’s Russia. Now it is Ukrainian-held territory.
After seeing countless towns in Ukraine reduced to rubble, it was a shock to see such destruction hit Russia itself. Not since the Nazis launched Operation Barbarossa in World War Two has Russian territory been invaded, let alone since Russia became a nuclear power.