Letters from the Past: Fred Dustin's snapshot of Jeju Island in 1975

1 month ago 217

By Robert Neff

An American hunter on Jeju Island in the late 1950s / Robert Neff Collection

An American hunter on Jeju Island in the late 1950s / Robert Neff Collection

Old letters are treasured windows into the past. They lack the brutal honesty and starkness of diary entries, instead offering a sanitized portrayal of daily life, written to entertain and inform friends and family. Fred Dustin’s letters from Jeju Island, penned some 50 years ago, are no exception.

His letters from January 1974 were tinged with uncertainty. Fuel and energy troubles plagued the nation — as well as the rest of the world — causing food prices to soar and fostering desperation among the people, which resulted in the “robbery rate going way up.” In his letter he wrote:

“It is fantastic how prices are rising here. Unbelievable. A package of noodles that used to cost 18 won (4 months ago) now cost 50 won. Flour is going up about 50%. Any kind of beef costs just a little over a dollar a pound [1,390 won].”

Even the island’s fresh seafood and vegetables were not spared from inflation. Dustin lamented that, the previous year, a fresh mackerel at the fish market on the pier could be purchased for 7 won, but they now sold for 78 won. One serving of battered shrimp cost about 700 won, while a carton of eggs was priced at 70 won. Dustin confided to his parents that, due to the cost, he ate a lot of salad, as cabbage remained relatively affordable, albeit more expensive than the previous year.

Fred Dustin and a group of visitors to Jeju Island in the 1970s / Robert Neff Collection

Fred Dustin and a group of visitors to Jeju Island in the 1970s / Robert Neff Collection

Dustin assured his parents that 1975 would be better — and, judging from his letters, it was. As an employee of KAL Hotel in Jeju City, he was frequently sent to Seoul to promote Jeju Island as an ideal vacation site for American soldiers and their families.

According to Dustin, “the [KAL] Hotel is absolutely modern, charming and complete with good food, fine drinking water and there is absolutely no pollution on [Jeju Island],” unlike the smog-filled skies of Seoul.

In his letter, he praised the island’s well-kept 18-hole golf course, located just a 20-minute taxi ride from the hotel. The view from the course, he noted, was breathtaking and, according to him, was able to relieve “the wearied city-eyes of smog, concrete and steel.” Golf on Jeju was extremely affordable compared to Seoul, with green fees costing just 8,200 won (approximately $5.76 at the time, or about $33 in today’s money), and a caddy available for an additional 1,000 won.

A postcard of Jeju Island circa 1930-40s / Robert Neff Collection

A postcard of Jeju Island circa 1930-40s / Robert Neff Collection

For those who wanted a more up-close-and-personal view of the island, there were alternatives to taking taxis or buses:

“Bicycle riding is a new recreational activity on the Island, made possible by a fine network of newly hard-surfaced roads. Many guests in 1974 found cycling around the Island on a two-day jaunt an ideal way [to see] the coastline while enjoying the warmth and friendliness of the local population.”

Bicycles could be rented at the hotel or in one of the many shops nearby.

For the more adventurous, there was hiking and camping at one of the many “beautiful white coral-sand beaches” or in the “wild and desolate areas around the Snake and Manjanggul Caves, or into the picturesque valleys or majestic gorges of Mount Halla.” The hotel also provided guides (usually college students) for those who wanted to hike to the summit of the mountain. Dustin noted, “There is no set guide fee, but about 4,000 won per day is considered fair, plus meals and lodging.”

The beaches were also popular venues — especially in July and August, when high school and university students from the mainland packed them during their summer vacations. The beaches all boasted fresh water for showering, and “for the forgetful,” swimsuits could be rented at kiosks. Unfortunately, there were no facilities for surfing, and waterskiing was limited, but Dustin was confident they would develop as demand increased.

Fred Dustin and one of his dogs in the 1970s / Robert Neff Collection

Fred Dustin and one of his dogs in the 1970s / Robert Neff Collection

Jeju, declared Dustin, had “the finest and most attractive [scuba] diving waters to be found anywhere in the Pacific,” and the hotel would soon employ a professional instructor to provide diving lessons.

“Fishing — surf casting, ‘plucking,’ trolling — is still the best kept secret of Jeju Island,” declared Dustin. “Regardless of the method you choose, the fisherman is always rewarded. Mackerel and bonito are caught in great quantities. Red, black, or rock snappers are great favorites of local anglers, as well as the epicure.”

Fishing gear could be rented from the hotel for “a modest cost,” and boats could be chartered for about 69,000 won ($50) per day.

In his proposal, Dustin proclaimed, “Whereas the best kept secret of Jeju is fishing, pheasant hunting is probably the most well-known fact,” and hunters from all over Asia come to the island “to fill their daily bag limits.” He went on to add:

“Hunting season usually opens on November 1st and closes at the end of February. The Jeju Hunting Association furnishes guides with dogs at nominal prices. License and permit fees vary depending upon the visa status of the hunter. Diplomatic and Military personnel received considerable reductions over local or international hunters in 1974-75.”

Somewhat alarmingly, given present-day Korea’s strict firearm laws, the hotel provided the free service of storing arms and ammunition. It also arranged hunting guides and dogs, as well as “freezing all game brought to the hotel by guests.”

A small boat on Jeju Island in the 1970s. Fred Dustin was very fond of boats and helped build several of his own. Robert Neff Collection

A small boat on Jeju Island in the 1970s. Fred Dustin was very fond of boats and helped build several of his own. Robert Neff Collection

Dustin also capitalized on Jeju’s great hunting by allowing his military friends to use his house as a base camp and providing them with a guide (Dustin’s assistant). In a letter to his parents, he proudly boasted that MJ (his assistant) was “a deadeye shot with the shotgun, and the other day he got 10 birds with a total of 8 shots fired!” Several months earlier, MJ “couldn’t shoot worth a damn” until an American general — a guest at Dustin’s home — took him out for a couple of days and showed him how to shoot. Dustin declared the general “was an excellent teacher.”

Dustin’s home became so popular with American military hunters that he began referring to it as his “Hunting Lodge” and MJ earned a little over $200 guiding these hunters over a weekend.

Dustin also had a pointer named Lucy and a German shorthair named Duke, which he used as hunting dogs. He declared them to be fine dogs and, for a short time, toyed with the idea of establishing his own hunting kennel. However, that dream was never realized after one of his dogs was fatally wounded while hunting.

Wild Jeju ponies on Fred Dustin’s land in the late 1960s / Robert Neff Collection

Wild Jeju ponies on Fred Dustin’s land in the late 1960s / Robert Neff Collection

While 1975 began with great hope, it ended somewhat dismally. Dustin suffered from failing eyesight and needed to receive medical treatment in Seoul. The prognosis was good, but it filled him with anxiety. To his parents, he admitted, “I could never afford [the procedure] in the States,” and even in Korea, it was going to cost him a lot of money — but it was worth it if the symptoms could be relieved and hopefully eradicated.

His vision was not the only thing he was losing. His assistant, MJ, had passed his entrance exams and would soon attend graduate school in the United States. Dustin regretted losing him but noted that MJ’s “talent and ability are much too great for use in Korea at this time.”

However, rather than dwell on the negative, Dustin, in his typical fashion, preferred to concentrate on the future. He had great things planned for 1976, including establishing his own private English cram school. He confided that it would be slow in developing but he was sure his efforts would be worth it. He also had long-range goals: he wanted to design two calendars — one for a local bank and another for the hotel — for 1978!

Throughout his life, Dustin was filled with dreams and goals, and while most of them failed to succeed, he never gave up and eventually established Gimnyeong Maze Park — the first of its kind on Jeju. His legacy continues to live on through the hearts and memories of his friends, former students, peers and family. I like to think that every time a visitor successfully navigates the maze and rings the bell, its toll brings joy to Dustin — a man who never gave up.

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including "Letters from Joseon," "Korea Through Western Eyes" and "Brief Encounters."

Source: koreatimes.co.kr
Read Entire Article Source

To remove this article - Removal Request